Eventually, in a visit to London last summer, I had W & S make me a versatile grey flannel three-piece and I was extremely pleased: absolutely wonderful cut and fit, and exquisite hand finishing. I worry, however, that they might be a bit expensive. I can see a grey being useful, but that's about all probably. No it would look good without a tie. I am still a student but want to get my first bespoke suit made; would you still recommend Whitcomb and Shaftesburys classic bespoke and have you any experience with Huntsmans 3,500 classic bespoke? I was hoping that you might be able to recommend a particular type of fabric. I commissioned a suit from W&S and Siam was the cutter. To be honest I am leaning more towards WS now but cannot make up my mind! There is a tremendous amount of added value in their product the Savile Row cache, the fact theyre actual tailors and not salesmen which I dont think is being communicated in the price. Solito, Dalcuore, Caliendo and Rubinacci (in ascending order of price! Is sufficient to have the master coatmaker in the fittings or you absolutely need to see the cutter? Richard. Ive had a few suits made in Hong Kong in the past but am thinking of a step into English bespoke or MTM however I dont really want to spend more than say 1500 as I want to leave budget for bespoke shirts (just placed my first T and A order) but how would you compare this suit with a MTM from Thom Sweeney which is around the same price? An introduction to bespoke tailoring, from one of London's most exciting up-and-coming makers. PS Presents 23: Arterton, LEJ, Marrkt, Fox and Rubato, Click on an image to enlarge. Its unlikely your right armhole doesnt have to be lower, unless that right shoulder is significantly smaller. English style in mens clothing England has always been one of the poles of mens fashion along with Italy. Hi Simon. Also for the sake of comparison would the drawbacks of mtm for soft tailoring (disregarding fit as obvious) be less of the hand details. If you want to be safe, try on something they already have and give your opinion on it. Permanent Style - Artisan of the Year 2021 New York 21-24 February 2023 I am a doctor trust and confidence is my core value. What I also find interesting and perhaps would be an interesting point of discussion with a tailor is that even though my right shoulder drops, I dont think my right armhole should be lower. I am split between Graham Browne and Whitcomb. Its not the end of the world, but it certainly bugs me to face an issue which I did not face with RTW- a collar gap. Outstanding blog, Simon. All bespoke has small margins and much higher production costs money spent on making, rather than selling. But yes, I know the trend you mean. Ie price including VAT is GBP 1362. HB, In some ways, yes, though the structure etc is different and the value itself even better too. Very good sales and marketing. But as I live in Geneva, and Varese would not be such a long drive from here, would Sartoria Vergallo also be a great option for high-end bespoke at relatively good prices? Thats a really great question, and very useful experiences of bespoke too. I wouldnt worry as regards experience John and Bob (coatmaker) have plenty of experience there. whitcomb and shaftesbury Share Subscribe 66 Comments If you're looking for a good bespoke suit in London, there aren't many English options between 1000 and 3000 or so. which is better in your opinion? We now turn to the problems I believe the suit has. Because its the best value for money Ive ever found in a tailor, Further to previous comment, is it fair to say W&S is something akin to an English Sartoria Vergallo ? I am unsatisfied considering GB is 850 but their forte is not in this style of tailoring. And no, I dont think its appropriate for business. But different to an A&S drape cut, and very different to anything French or Italian. And if the Italians with their inherent expressiveness dress brightly, boldly Read More, Mens accessories: the image of a man It is undeniable that the image consists of details. This looks perfect! Good point, and I assume you mean 1632 with VAT. Trousers are made entirely by hand, with hand-sewn curtained waistbands. I will still use my other London tailor but certainly plan to include W&S in the rotation. How would you compare W&S to Steven Hitchcock based on style and quality? I had a strict deadline though. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury Artisanal Bespoke The Whitcomb & Shaftesbury suit epitomises the idea of slow fashion, a backlash against the disposable trends of recent years. If you decide to trust one and go for it how far can you impose your ideas of cut and style on them? Bespoke suits are custom-Made suits that are tailor-made to fit the specific measurements of the person ordering them. No, its a good question. It sounds like it might also be due to the fact that this was your first experience. Is it sailing, sailing, or the way to new horizons? What you may not know, though, is that while the name sounds traditional, Whitcomb & Shaftesbury has built its reputation for quality by doing things differently. I have to say at the first fitting was impressed at the quality / value. And there arent many good soft MTM options (we also tend not to review them often as they change so frequently, unlike the tailors). Dear Simon, From the H&S Classic Worsteds bunch do recall if this was the navy, dark navy or midnight? (Which one imagines is the standard 6-9 weeks. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury Bespoke Navy Wool Savile Row Classic Fishtail Trousers LNWOT BIG GUYS Paolo Martorano Bespoke Mid Grey Fresco Hopsack Explorer Pants #1 LNWOT BIG GUYS Paolo Martorano Bespoke S110s Italian Wool Draped Gabardine Pants + 69.35 Postage + 2.22 VAT will apply Shop with confidence eBay Premium Service Its more about opening up the possibilities, rather than providing something concrete and narrow. I am planning to order my first bespoke suit soon. Apologies if this is an obvious question. Would W&S be a good option. And the buttonholes have had a machine stitch on the back as a guide, before being finished by hand. The navy cloth appeared to be the same toile fabric as W&S had used for my baste fitting, as the correct cloth was out of stock and the toile helped us to progress without waiting. I havent had a suit or jacket made in a while. Simon. Simon, have you tried a MTM service such as MyTailor in the United States? The twist of thread is 40 - that is for mass-market shirts; the fabric with a double twist (two ply) from 80 to 160, is used for high-quality high-quality shirts. Thanks Chris, thats always helpful, and yes absolutely, aware of how beneficial it would be. Any unique creation is possible from designing your own fabric to printing a customized lining, you can play designer, or you can sit back and let us create a masterpiece for you, enjoying the elegance and style that has come to represent British tailoring. I havent Im afraid apart from Luxire part of the problem is theres a lot of them so its hard to say anything comprehensive. Buttonholes are sewn with silk thread by hand. Not necessarily more structured, but cleaner in the chest and different in other style aspects. The feeling I got when discussing some of these details with the team at W&S was one of denial of some of the problems. One of your best suits in my opinion! Hi Simon, I know comparing tailors from Italy and England is like comparing apples and pears (style wise), but just from a quality perspective how would you compare Sartoria Vergallo to this W&S offering? Hi Simon, can i suggest an article on what are realistic expectations for bespoke services, and how to get the most out of bespoke-made items? The same cutter and coatmaker (John McCabe and Bob Bigg) managed the making of both. Whitcomb might have a slightly greater range in style than Sexton, but not much. Another question: in another post you mention desiring to be measured at the house itself; a friend of yours had gone to a trunk show and did not receive good results with fit. Its nice in a sports coat, but frankly its not one I would wear with denim. Tim Everest offered a 10/11oz super 120 fabric for 1450+VAT with full canvas and extra trousers done in six weeks at a factory in Czech. I wouldnt ask any non-Neapolitan tailor to do Neapolitan to be honest. In the end, i am happy with my suit, but i didnt feel that i received a great deal of support/guidance from them, not what i was expecting for a bespoke service anyway. Although given how many issues tailors have had over the past 30 years (particularly changing business models or cutters so youre relationship goes out the window) I think theyve got as much chance of staying around as anyone. A Graham Browne suit and a Huntsman suit are traditional, structured English suits. Worth stating again perhaps that no judgments on fit should be made from photos. See how much you wear it and what you enjoy about it, at least for a while. The real benefits of bespoke are in the long term, for example when you have gone through it once or twice, and know exactly what you want and what to ask about during the sessions. Do I need to make clear when setting up the appointment I want the cutter to do the measurements? This is a price bracket that most of your readers could stretch to and so we need more of this from yourself . Indeed, the tailor will usually line up the waist button marks when pinning the jacket during a fitting. Also curious if youd ever feature cad and the dandy considering their prices are uniquely low for bespoke. Yes I think so, it has a great feeling to it. Every artist has their Read More, What is yachting. More than Poole, but less than A&S. Its a nice process but one that can take years as any full wardrobe upgrade would effectively do. Have you read my post on the margins of bespoke generally? I notice that they have recently taken on a new cutter called Sian Walton. I am considering a suit commission using W&S and I personally like a wider lapel as it looks better for my body type (proportionally larger chest and smaller waist). Should the button and buttonhole align when the jacket is unbuttoned? The size is down to the tie thicker silk or lining for a bigger knot, a wider tie for a longer knot.. as Ive indicated in my comments on your Vergallo loden coat post, I will also be trying the W&S classic bespoke service for a winter flannel suit. Thats the reason why I considered W&S, but I dont like the drape cut. The extra trousers came in at around 350, I believe (I saw a post below about this). Hi Simon. But as you say, the biggest differences between all those are style. Even though W&S is affordable compared to Savile Row, I would prefer neapolitans which are comparable in price to W&S but in my experience produced a much nicer fitting and much more comfortable jacket than W&S. How would you compare them to Tim Everest or C&D for MTM in terms of quality and value? Subscribe to RR1 Live+ for exclusive virtual events all year long (at least 1 per month), conversations with Robb Report editors, special perks, and more. With a business suit I can see the clear value add with the handpadding of canvas and shoulders, but for softer tailoring of less canvassing and natural shoulders, (overall less structure) the compromise should not be as drastic? I am fine with the amount of chest drape in their house style but would like to see slightly stronger shoulders and a bit more roping. You could also look at Kent Haste & Lachter, who would be more similar to that style. Thanks for your reply. 11 St. George Street is a throwback to more elegant times. It seems to have a bit of drape, and the shoulders arent too military? I mean its so majestic, amazing you should do a tutorial on it. I have got two questions which I think a lot of people toil with. I dont think W&S has any different margins to other bespoke tailors. The quality is similar, just with the price saving coming from the overseas make (presuming thats what you went for). Coats Read More W&S seem to be a interesting chaps.. Do you recommend against a tuxedo as a first commission from a tailor? Drakes MTM program is priced only slightly above its RTW, so its something Ive wondered about a lot as I try and build my own tailoring wardrobe, especially of softer styles. And either no pattern of just a small one in the weave like Birdseye or pick and pick, or herringbone. Its not that big, no, around 300 depending on cloth. With over 400 years of accumulated experience on Savile Row, our master cutters and tailors take care of ensuring a perfect fit, creating the ultimate collaboration of design and craftsmanship. Im a student , Look up Graham Browne and Whitcomb on this site. Simon are you familiar with Redmayne 1860s MTM service and, if so, between Redmaynes 1860 Acclaim MTM and W&S classic bespoke, which would be better quality? Thank you for your help and the great website. Im all for casting a wider net but lets keep it in the round. It is another interesting approach. Insisting on something still identifiable as W & S, bearing Bob and Johns beautiful fingerprints but of much softer construction, I was reassured with confidence by Suresh. Predominantly a Savile Row style or do they stray into Neapolitan construction as well? Hi Simon, If the later, have you seen any examples? I was wondering if you knew how prices for Saville Row Bespoke and Classic Bespoke have changed at Whitcomb & Shaftesbury since this article was written in 2016? I think there is often a risk with bespoke that people expect perfection, and everything to have been considered for them, when it is more interactive, and does have most benefits over time. Following your review of W&S I have scheduled an appointment for their upcoming visit to NY. Apr 11, 2018 - Whitcomb & Shaftesbury final suit - great value bespoke. Once your account is created, you'll be logged-in to this account. Wondered if you had any thoughts ? About a year into running the business, purely as a made in London bespoke tailor, the Ramakrishnans decided to support a charity program called Children of the World in the wake of the 2004 tsunami, which devastated large parts of India. The same business model doesnt quite exist, no. Coat Details Fabric Pattern: Solid. As bespoke is new to me, for both pieces i did my best to educate myself beforehand, but naturally must rely on the experience of the service provider. The pleat on the trouser is quite shallow which makes it not functional. Equally, as Im probably going to take the leap, if youd like any feedback from me on it, Id be more than happy to share. Vergallo would be a great starting point. Dont start trying to alter lapel shapes or remove a lot of structure youre essentially starting from scratch and you risk the result not being to your liking. If those people want that product, they now know exactly what they need to pay for it 3,050 (the price of the Savile Row Bespoke product) rather than 1,350 (the Classic Bespoke). We also get your email address to automatically create an account for you in our website. She is very kind and nice I will give my jackets back to my W&S and Zizolfi for adjustment. Get the Robb Report newsletter for similar stories delivered straight to your inbox. Even in todays culture of instant gratification, a large majority of the worlds best-dressed men still go to the effort and expense of having their clothes custom-made. Just a suggestion! Looking back at this, would you still have gotten the suit in 13oz instead of something like a 10/11oz? I also liked the jetted pockets (although I thought you only liked them on tuxes). Fit is very good and I find the level of make and finishing not too far behind my other English bespoke suits. Shoe and boot reviews, mostly of the high-end, British, Goodyear welted variety . Wempe Teamed Up With Boatbuilder Tim Heywood to Make Two Limited-Edition Marine Chronometers, Rimowa Unveils a New, More Organized Pilot Case for Your Next Short-Haul Trip, The Best-Dressed Men of the SAG Awards, From Eddie Redmayne to Austin Butler. Advice on prospective colour would be welcome! They seem stylistically similar (soft w some drape), and affordable. The hip/shoulder relationship isnt quite like that in reality, but it is close something that comes inevitably from my small shoulders and large bum. Alex N. Even in fittings when there are no buttons and buttonholes, there will be rows of stitching or chalk marks where the buttons are planned to go, and these will line up. Every aspect of the garment from the fabric to the style is customized and tailored for your unique body. Edge tapes, hems and linings are completely felled by hand. How would you compare this to Grahame Browne given the close pricing? First fitting was very compromised. Have a look at my posts in the past on Rubinacci bespoke. Whitcomb also recruited a third, younger cutter, Sian Walton, formerly of Thom Sweeney, Alexander McQueen and Kilgour. Hi Salvatore, Our coats are fully handmade with floating canvases. Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Bespoke Cashmere Wool Safari Jacket Drakes London Style - 2500 In Blue (Large) at the best online prices at eBay! Our bespoke suits are made without compromise by the best craftsmen in Savile Row. I mean, top quality stuff for about a 1/3 of the price. W&S was at about the same price point without the extra trousers for a super 100 9/10 oz made in seven weeks in India. I also expect that you may receive favorable treatment in many instances, possibly skewing the actual standard of service. Following your blog, it seems that you were very happy with Vergallo in the past. John doesnt go on all the trips, but I wouldnt worry too much about that as long as hes there for one or two of the fittings. No, not necessarily. That means the clothes have been designed specifically for you and no one else. Should the button and buttonhole align when the jacket is unbuttoned? The company has remained a family-run business since their establishment in 1806. Yes, I would recommend them for a first suit. LOVABLE BROGUE. Thank you and have a pleasant weekend. This one, or good value english tailors (for example grahame browne)? She corrected my trousers and identified there was an issue straight away. I understand none of the cutters will come on this trip but Bob will be present for the initial consultation and measurement. Is it possible to request a little bit less drape from W&S? The workshop is a cooperative, so all the tailors own part of the company, and we guarantee full salaries for all our staff, rather than paying piece work. 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